Northern Ranger Heads South - New Latitudes, New Adventures! 

We have had a change of heart - a while ago we had the opportunity to trade up to a Nordhavn 50. It was too much of a deal to pass up, and although we absolutely love the 46, we saw an opening for dealing with the un-acknowledged two foot ( four foot) itis and we bought Worknot, an N50 we had the pleasure of meeting on the 2015 Cubar cruise. The story has unfolded through this blog somewhat - and now we have done the Cubar 2017, in our new Northern Ranger II - another stellar Nordhavn that we have totally fallen in love with. 

In a perfect world, we would be able to keep the 46 up in Canada and cruise her around the Pacific Northwest, but that is not possible. We are hoping that someone will fall in love with her the way we did, and we will once again be a one boat family ( I lie .... we have about 14 little boats up at the lake and down on the coast and on the 50 - but it would be nice to divest ourself of the 46 and make someone else's life perfect the way ours was when we found her.

And so the story continues - we are back in Mexico, the future is unclear but I see more cruising ahead! And again, we have found the boat of our dreams, our forever boat, and we know she will take us on lots more adventures! 

Some photos from our two legs down to La Paz - Anacortes to San Diego, and then the Cubar Rally , from San Diego to La Paz!  

thoughts and meanderings




La Cruz... a thumbnail sketch

 

I have been hearing about La Cruz for a while now. North of Puerto Vallarta , (city of cruise ships, all-inclusives, pasty

pale gringos clutching cameras and sporting I- heart -PV teeshirts...and small children offering tiny

packages of chicklets or paper flowers for a handful of pesos...) La Cruz promised a laid back, more authentic

feel made familiar by the long-term expats who call  this once-tiny fishing village their home. Old friends and

acquaintances have made this town their home and their life, either buying into condominions or renting, or

even buying and opening a rather wonderful and very popular bed and breakfast right by the marina on the

water (Villa D’amor de Mar...look it up! It is special!)

 

This is a nice little town, for sure - still very Mexican, with a lot of Canadians and Americans who came for the

sun many years ago and stayed for the  music..and maybe the cervesas.

Our favourite pastime has become sitting in palapas on the streets and listening to the conversations around

us.

 

Everyone knows everyone - and if they don’t know you, for the most part, they still smile and say hola...

gringos or Mexicans alike. It is a very friendly place!

People looking for pristine streets, Walmart, and quaint pretty gingerbread buildings will be disappointed. One needs to pay attention to one’s feet at all times ( no texting and walking).. disaster awaits in the form of uneven cobblestones,

broken glass, pieces of palm trees, or what dogs leave when they don’t have an owner following them around with baggies. 

But walking the streets gives you such an insight into the town .. behind painted fading  doors or rusting ornate iron 

gates  are shops full of hot just-made tortillas, fresh vegetables, local cheese, meat, eggs - there are no

aggressive hawkers in brightly lit stores selling garish shoes and fancy jeans, tacky tourist hats or generic

mementos. 


Every meal we have had has been good, no matter the state of the building or the chairs we sit on. People are

friendly and helpful and there is none of the calling out and shoving menus in your face as you walk by. Eat

here, don’t eat here? We know you’ll come back!

 

In the morning I walk. There is not a long Malecon such as the ones in PV or La Paz... there is a decent

walkway around the marina, that extends around to where the fish boats offload their catch and sell to the

public. In the morning before it gets too warm, there are all manner of walkers and runners, as well as buses

and vans disgorging  today’s group of happy party boaters destined for one of the handful of large cat boats

docked behind us. The cheerful staff are there before the sun is up, readying the yachts and themselves for

that day’s charter. People arrive, and the jolly times have begun - music, happy laughter, general hilarity and

well being as each vessel departs for the day’s activity. 

 


 


I walk towards the main building and the washrooms...then around past the outdoor amphitheater ( music and movies  once a week).. and the end of that arm of the breakwater. There are thick bushes of jasmine along the walk and in the

cooler morning the air sings with their sweet scent. The local feral cats are getting fed by the

kind hearted  long-timers who have made it their mission to see these animals neutered and fed and perhaps

adopted.

The local bottle-collector moves slowly through the marina, towing a buggy and searching the bins-

she has been here forever and is a colourful, cheerful, and well-respected part of the community.

The air is also full of birdsong. In the morning it’s a veritable cacophony! Coconut trees rattle their fronds

above me and I wonder about the lovely bunches of coconuts clinging to each tree... will one fall? Could be a

good thing...could be a painful thing...no one seems to ‘nut’ or ‘denut’ the trees. I take my chance and walk

under them anyway.

Around the other side, smells take on a whole new life. Something akin to open sewer (it isn’t) melds with the miasma

of the fish market. It’s a heady aroma! But the fresh fish, just offloaded from the pangas to the buckets to the piles of

ice - they shine and gleam, and watching the men behind the knives reduce massive bodies of

tuna and dorado into manageable glistening chunks.. it’s mesmerizing. I note on my walk this morning that

someone got lucky and bagged a tuna - we have had tuna for two nights, fresh from the market Sunday... it

was magnificent.

 

 


On Sundays the area around the market is full of vendors selling all manner of wonderful things. Food, jewelry, art,

ornaments, clothing. We enjoyed our first market but only bought what we needed for dinner that night. I

am planning my next foray with a little more forethought...there were things that although I don’t necessarily

neeeeeeed I may find out later that I wannnnnnt.

I had no idea what staying here for a few weeks would be like.  It’s an experiment, to experience another small town on a more long term  basis. It is causing me to think about what  I get out of cruising. So far our trips

have been mostly about anchoring in new places, where we can jump in the water or the dinghy or the kayak,

snorkeling or swimming or just cooling off.  Some destinations give us an opportunity to take long walks and

discover exciting things, mostly natural, but sometimes they are in the form of tiny fishing villages in the middle of no

where...no condos, golf courses, or five start restaurants within miles. 

Just tiendas and palapas on the beach that offer up freshly grilled fish tacos made with hand crafted tortillas

and a cold cervesa for a handful of pesos.

 

So hanging out here has been .. different. We talk to people who call it home, even if it’s only for half the year. We

eavesdrop on conversations about who has moved where, who is still around and who has gone, and

where the best band was last night. Music is indeed a huge part of this little town.. a passion for classic rock

and roll seems to be one of the prerequisites for moving here. We actually have only listened from the outside, not

having ventured out later at night to enjoy the festivities. I love music - and from what I hear it’s all good

and a lot of fun is had. The other half - well we will get out there eventually. Although we have partaken in

some of the local activities... Tuesday  trivia... helping out in the English school ...  spanish lessons...

I do draw the line at pickle ball which has a very dedicated band of followers here - from what I see they are

VERY competitive! Out of my league! But it looks like a lot of fun.

But my daily addiction is walking. And more than any town so far this small little village provides us with ample

opportunity to meander, to stride, to amble, to stop and smell the tacos... to meet and greet and introduce ourselves to complete strangers and their dogs..

We took a taxi to visit friends at the marina at Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta ... from the huge modern ( and

apparently wonderful) hospital, to the acres and acres of condos and hotels and stores and restaurants...to the “adults only “ pool surrounded by deck chairs and smiling waiters, I could only ask myself  where am I? LA,

Palm Springs, Vegas? .  A country and western buffet,  tables groaning  with food and a mechanical bull front

and centre... we enjoyed our foray into how they do it down in PV...and were very happy to get back in our cab and

come home to La Cruz. 

But I know that my reason for cruising isn’t about spending all my time in cities, towns, or even villages. I am
enjoying every minute here, but I look forward to the passage north, where we may stop and explore a few

towns or villages or, and this is my choice...another couple of long days and nights, reprovision in La Paz, and then

head north as far and as fast as we can. The silent aqua  waters and empty endless pink beaches are

calling me!

 

 


But I think this town of La Cruz will always hold a special place in my heart.


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Comments

Loved reading your blog Penny.   How will I know when you post something or do I have to go in and "look"?

 

 sandra nerreter  11/22/2017

 Reply

How exciting for you!  A new boat is always a dream come true.  I came across NRI for sale on yachtworld.com which brought me here, and I have enjoyed reading your blog entries.  It has been my life's dream to own a N46 for my wife and I to retire to, one day.  We can always dream!  Fair winds and following seas to you, and maybe we will see you along the way, some day.

 Jim & Tara  8/28/2017

 Reply

---Reply posted by TimothySops on 2/14/2018
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---Reply posted by Penny Talbot on 8/28/2017
Hi Jim and Tara! thanks for the kind words... we have loved NRI and she is a wonderful vessel to retire on - hold onto the dream, and I hope that you find your forever boat waiting for you in the future! ( just not ours... although that would be lovely... but we would really like to sell her earlier than later.. she has many many miles end years of adventures in her yet and she needs to be out there making someone very, very happy!)
Cheers!
Penny

Looks kinda hot. Still be rainy and cool here for a few months. WAnt to trade? No really that sun can be very bad for your skin. And any more than 5 drinks a day can be bad for you, but need 7 for hydration, or at least good dance moves. What's a girl to do?

 BillC  4/27/2017

 Reply

GREAT photos Penny !!!  Sounds like you are having a wonderful adventure !!!!

Travel safe and we will see you soon, in La Paz at Costa Baja !!!

Kim

 Kim   10/31/2016

 Reply

...getting up at 3 in the morning to look at the stars... I love it, such a picture in my mind. I'm so enjoying your travels Penny. I feel like I'm in your back pocket...learning so much about living on the water.

 Mary Lou  5/16/2016

 Reply

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